Let me start by saying this is far from being a new idea to create coasters from tiles. There are tons of other tutorials online for this project. Of course, like most craft projects…. the coasters are mostly flowers and rainbows, so hopefully I am bringing a slightly new, yet creepier perspective on a common DIY with these Skeleton Tile Coasters.
Last week’s DIY was actually my inspiration for this project…. You may recognize the skeleton. I used the same one to create a Skeleton Dress Form Mannequin. In order to achieve an oversize image transfer for the dress form, I had to split the images into several sections in order to print on letter size paper. I broke the image into 6 individual images, and while looking at the six images in a grid, I loved how they looked, and an idea was born. I figured coasters would be a great way to achieve this look permanently!
I liked the idea of each coaster being only a part of the overall image, like a puzzle piece. It’s like having a little taste of a bigger surprise. It also works out as a great idea when you have guests… if they know which puzzle piece is theirs, it’s an easy way to keep track of whose drink is whose!!
While plenty of other tutorials do exist, they all have varying opinions about the best method for creating these. As you may have guessed, I too have my own spin for the best method. Here’s the surprising thing about many of the tutorials…. they seal the coasters with mod podge. Mod Podge is not waterproof. So, while it is a cute craft project, it’s not really functional. My version is. I also opted to use an antique finish on my coasters…. it just goes better with my decor, but instructions are the same whether you want the added finish or not.
Here’s how I made them:
- 4 x 4 Tiles
(I used solid white ceramic)
- Printable Image
- Mod Podge – Antique Matte
(Optional Original Mod Podge – Matte Finish
)
- 2-3 Foam Brushes
- Black Paint
- Small Detail Paint Brush
- Wax Paper
- Spar Urethane
- Self Adhesive Cork
(I used solid white ceramic)
(Optional 
)
Buy a stack of 4 x 4 tiles. I chose to get simple white porcelain wall tiles. There are other image transfer methods that may work better with textured tiles, but for this tutorial, a smooth tile works best.
Once you choose your image, you need to divide it into perfect squares. I liked the way the six squares looked with this skeletal image, but if your image is not as long, 4 squares may make more sense. You want to ensure the entire image is included in the squares, and you want to make sure each square has some graphic detail.
Now…. to get your individual squares prepared for the tiles, you have 2 options.
1. If you have an image editing program on your computer:
- Draw a grid onto your image of the determined number of squares.
- Resize the image so that each square of the grid is the same size as one tile. Be sure to measure the tile. Even though my tiles were marked as 4 x 4″, they were actually 4.25 x 4.25″.
- Crop the image down to the first square.
- Hit Save As, and name the image Square 1.
- Then immediately Undo the Crop, returning you back to the full image with the grid.
- Repeat the steps Crop, Save, and Undo with Squares 2-6.
- Print the six squares
2. If you don’t have access to editing software, don’t worry, there’s a simple solution:
- Depending on how many tiles you have chosen to use, lay them flat against each other in a grid and measure the total length and width.
- Resize your image to fit within the layout of the tile
- Print the entire image
- Using your tiles as a guide, draw the grid onto the back of the image, and cut the squares out.
Cover your work surface with wax paper. This helps to prevent the tiles from sticking.
Brush a coat of Mod Podge onto the surface of the tile.
Lay one image square onto the tile, with edges aligned.
Allow to dry.
Brush a layer of Mod Podge over the top of the image. Be sure to coat the edges. Every edge needs to be completely sealed with the paste. In a later step, you will be adding a sealant that will leave an oil like stain if it is able to seep under the paper.
Allow to dry.
Brush a second layer of Mod Podge over the image.
Allow to dry.
While I like the antique finish of the image, I wasn’t thrilled with the yellow tint on the side of the tile, so I opted to paint the tile edges black.
Plan to do two coats of the black paint on the tile edges. Ceramic tiles don’t always accept paint very well, so a second coat usually does the trick
Once dry, use something to prop each tile up in the air. I used paper water cups. The reason for this, is that you don’t want the urethane to puddle down the sides of the tiles.
Brush the tile with a coat of Spar Urethane.
Allow to dry… several hours.
When it is no longer sticky to the touch, brush on a second coat. I like to brush in the opposite direction as the first coat.
Allow to dry for 24 hours.
Cut the cork into 4 x 4 squares. Yes, you can buy cork that already comes in squares, but it just seemed like such a rip off, and the cork is so easy to cut.
The cork comes with self adhesive so they can just stick onto the back of your tile. You can certainly add some glue if you have a feeling you might be hard on these! 🙂
And now you have coasters…. and a puzzle…. and home decor!!
Funnily enough, I could use some new coasters so will have to give these a go. Even more funny (or now simply expected?!) is while I don’t have a coaster craft coming this week, I do have a project involving a large image being divided into multiple pages for printing. How DO we keep doing this?! Also worth a mention is the sealing properties of Mod Podge. I’m with you about not using it for coasters, but my cold caller sign is still going strong after being outside (under cover but still somewhat exposed to the elements) for almost three years. That stuff is quite remarkable. Sx